For Journey’s Magazine

It was not long after dawn; brooding lilac storm-clouds had moved beyond Kenya’s far hills, an African fish eagle screamed glided above us, and the air was filled with the sound of honking wildebeest.

To my right, beyond the acacia trees, two meandering lines of rigidly-cantering, wildebeest – all twig-thin legs, ggossamer-thin goaties and sloping backs – filed north across the grasses of the Serengeti …